Travel Journalists Guild

 

Judith Fein

Been there, done that

South African Magic by Judith Fein

It was hurting him, all right. My husband Paul was taking notes, shooting photos and clutching his right ear as we traveled through South Africa. Finally, he dragged himself to an Ear, Nose and Throat specialist in Johannesburg who said Paul's eardrum was about to burst, and he couldn't fly home. Our plane took off, and we weren't on it.

A week went by. Paul was popping antibiotics, taking steroids, going for CAT scans, using a nasal spray, irrigating half his face, and the situation wasn't improving.
 

Two weeks. His hand was glued to his ear and he winced a lot and moaned in his sleep. Three weeks and it was time for the big guns. I went underground and found out the name of a Zulu sangoma, or healer, in the KwaZulu-Natal region. Then I hired a translator and schlepped Paul there.

We entered the sangoma's hut, and told her Paul needed help. She peppered the inside of a gourd with herbs, and the mixture began to foam. With a gulp, she drank it and her voice became deep and resonant. Her assistants were drumming behind her.

"You think what's wrong with you is your ear," she said to Paul, "but what's ailing you is that you don't know how to invite your ancestors into your life!"

During a two-hour ceremony, she instructed Paul to make a party, call in his ancestors -- even if he didn't know them by name -- and ask for their assistance. Then she wrapped Paul's torso in a strand of red yarn.

Surprisingly, Paul, who is not a woo-woo kind of guy and had tried everything else, agreed to the prescription. He wore the yarn, bought candles and food, and followed the sangoma's instructions.

A few days later, his ear pain vanished and we boarded a plane.

South Africa had worked its magic.